Lviv, Ukraine enters a golden age Published On Thu Feb 09 2012

The monument to Taras Shevchenko, Ukrainian poet, artist and hero, is along the Avenue of Freedom in Lviv, Ukraine. Julie Zall photo Juli Zall Special to the Star “I couldn’t survive in Lviv without coffee.” My host, Halyna, is not the only one who feels this way about the caffeinated elixir. Locals like to claim it is the high altitude, approximately 300 metres above sea level, that leads them to drink so much of it, but it is more likely the Western Ukrainian city’s position as a historic trade route that contributed to this cultural phenomenon, or quite simply their love of sweets that pair so well. We step into Svit Kavy (World of Coffee) and quickly realize that finding a seat will mean making friends. It is January and Ukrainians are in the festive spirit, with Orthodox Christmas just days behind them, Old New Year approaching and Epiphany a few weeks away. We find chairs at the end of a train of tables occupied by a group of carollers. The jolly choir of voices, nutty scent of freshly roasted Arabica and clatter of cups and cutlery warm me instantly. We had spent the afternoon browsing through markets in central Lviv.

Some permanent, others seasonal, they are outnumbered only by coffee houses and churches. Lviv has a history as a city of trade and while trendy young Lviviany discuss art and politics over a cup of java, the Soviet-born generations tend to their private piece of democracy in dizzying labyrinths of market stalls, selling everything from plush toys to Italian shoes. Despite the morning drizzle, we started at the open-air Vernissage Market, showcasing paintings of summer landscapes and traditional embroidery in countless shades of red, alongside old brass lamps, military binoculars and kitsch. Inspired by my black-and-white memories of Soviet Lviv, I walked away with a fine twin-lens Lomo camera made in the U.S.S.R. and a few sepia-toned photographs from Lviv’s Austrian-Hungarian era as a bonus, on account of my attempt at bargaining. Seduced by the smells of mulled wine and medovukha, honey liquor, we continued to the Christmas Market, a month-long installation along the centre promenade of Prospect Svobody. Freedom Avenue is the city’s main artery: on one end is its heart, the impressive Lviv Opera and Ballet Theater; on the other, its soul, a monument to the father of Ukrainian prose, Taras Shevchenko, where a statue of Lenin once stood. Since gaining independence from the Soviet Union more than 20 years ago, Ukraine, in the true Slavic spirit, has struggled to reclaim, revolutionize and rebuild itself as a worthy Euro candidate. Lviv, Lwow or Lemberg as it has been known throughout its 750-year history, has entered a new golden age. Today it resembles its Habsburg cousins of Vienna or Prague; restored castles and polished church domes dominate the UNESCO-enlisted historic centre. On both sides of Freedom Avenue, freshly stuccoed historic buildings in eggshell, bisque and misty rose house luxury hotels, shops and galleries. An equal number in dim, forgotten grey stand dilapidated from decades of Soviet neglect, veiled in banners and advertisements triumphantly proclaiming Lviv as one of the hosts of the approaching European Football Championship next summer. The Christmas Market along the promenade is a fairy-tale village of pine huts sparkling with tinsel and lights, some selling honey and beeswax candles, others souvenirs or sausages. Music and cheer echo from all directions, this I assume on account of the wine and brew. After a warm cup, we work up an appetite for the Doughnut Festival at nearby Ploscha Rynok, Market Square. Pampushky are more delicate than their North American kin, fried to a golden tan, filled with plum jam or sweet cheese, glazed with powdered sugar or sprinkled with poppy seeds. Calling them doughnuts might offend a few grandmothers. And it’s not surprising that Lviv hosts an annual festival in their honour; coffee and chocolate have their own respective fests throughout the year. The lively square is surrounded by dozens of colourful façades in Renaissance, baroque and Second Empire styles, resembling rows of geometric cupcakes with icing of mint cream, lavender blush and lemon custard. In one corner, two old men in shearling vests play folksy melodies on their accordions; in another, suited politicians discuss the future over a pint from a nearby stall. Ratusha, City Hall, with its ivory tower, stands in the centre. On one side of it, antiquated trams trot over cobblestones; on the opposite side, revellers skate around the winter rink. In the summer, rows of café tables line the square from end to end. Young and old alike pass by with pink cheeks, bouquets of crimson roses or peach gerberas, helium balloons of stars and hearts, and carefully wrapped pastries in hand. Beside me, Halyna walks with the air of a baroness, her wheat-blonde coiffure perfect, raspberry nails freshly manicured, a Chloe purse slung over her shoulder. The determined clicking of her heels on the cobblestones accelerates our pace. By the time we enter the coffee shop a few streets down from the square, I am exhausted. I order a Viennese coffee, a small potent dose with a generous dollop of whipped cream. I don’t think I could survive without it. JUST THE FACTS ARRIVING Many major European airlines offer connecting flights between Toronto and Lviv, including Ukraine International via Kiev, LOT Polish Airlines via Warsaw, Austrian Airlines via Vienna, Turkish Airlines via Istanbul and Lufthansa via Munich. Fares start from $900, including taxes and fees. Train and bus services are available from Budapest, Prague, Krakow, Warsaw, Kiev. Trains are often slower but more comfortable, offering two-person sleeper coupes. Online bookings only at www.tickets.ua SLEEPING Central, but away from the pedestrian traffic of Market Square, the Reikartz Medievale Lviv offers elegant rooms in a carefully restored 17th-century property. Doubles from $80 include breakfast; http://en.reikartz.com/lvov.html - 9, Drukars’ka St. The Citadel Inn is one of Lviv’s most unique luxury accommodations, housed in a mid-19th-century fortress with a history of glory and terror. Quiet property, 10-minute walk from the centre. Doubles from $160 include a first-rate breakfast. www.citadel-inn.com - 11, Grabovskiy St. Renting an apartment is a smart and affordable option in Lviv. Central properties from $40/night for a studio, www.inlviv.info/apartments and www.rentlviv.com. DINING Veronika Bakery & Restaurant houses one of the city’s best eateries in its cellar. The endless menu offers hearty and healthy European dishes and delicious homemade bread; mains from $8. www.veronika.lviv.ua - 21 Shevchenka Av. The chefs at Seven Piggies offer a feast of traditional dishes in a colourful, folksy interior resembling a country house; mains from $4. www.7piggies.com.ua - 9 Stepana Bandery St. It may be hard to find a table at Svit Kavy, serving the best cup of java in town, www.svitkavy.com - 6, Katedral’na Square. Hot-from-the-oven cherry strudel and a mean cup of tea at Tsukernia - 3, Staroyevreyska St. Relaxed shisha bar and wi-fi spot by day, energetic music venue by night, Music Lab is an intimate space serving strong coffee and even stronger cocktails, www.musiclab.com.ua - 27, Brativ Rohatyntsiv St. WEB SURFING Lviv Today covers city events, society and history for foreigners and expats, www.lvivtoday.com.ua. Interactive site that allows users to explore the city’s historic architecture and cultural treasures, www.lvivcenter.org. The only site offering online train and bus travel bookings in Ukraine, as well as airline and hotel options at competitive prices, www.tickets.ua.